Off the beaten track - Route 62 through the Klein Karoo

Between the Western Cape and Eastern Cape lies about a 300km strip of semi-desert land known as the ‘Klein’ (little in Afrikaans) Karoo. This is the less explored and hugely underrated stretch through some of the country’s most picturesque and unique scenery. Most travellers whiz past just South on the so called coastal ‘Garden Route’ road between Cape Town and popular holiday spots like Plettenberg Bay and Knysna.

Driving the alternative way just North of the Langeberg Mountains through from Montagu, is like being transported back in time. Small quirky ‘dorpies’ scattered along with genuinely warm and down-to-earth locals, proprietors of their older worldly cafe’s, antique stores and B&B farm houses. These places are worth the visit if not just for their charm. Calitzdorp looks like a dusty one horse town at first glance. But for the explorer there is a lot of good finds – from seriously good port and wine tastings to small but good art galleries - the place is a little gem. Boesmanskop is a seriously stylish place to overnight.

The Swartberg Pass on the way to Prince Albert is truly spectacular – it drops down dramatically from elevation and winds through sandstone riverbed to the edge of this perfect little place. The 250 year old town is like a quality red wine, it takes time to sink in how good it really is. Many well known South African artists have moved from all over the country to set up home here – it has something to do with the ‘feeling and the light’ they say... which inspires one’s creative side. The abundance of space and slow pace of life is a huge appeal. The night sky is sparklingly pure and clear with stars so bright it seems to illuminate the whole world.

Boesmanskop fireplace

Swartberg Mountains

Don’t expect any flashy glass and steel building here. The architecture and decor is of the surroundings – Afro-vintage with the smallest hints of glamour like a zebra skin here and a copper bath there.  No urban-chic deli-style eateries either. These places are about traditional, heartfelt food paired with local wines, it’s no fuss fare yet so good due to the unparalleled quality of locally grown ingredients.  

For those looking for some game spotting there is Sanbona Wildlife Reserve near Montagu which is home to the Big 5. This is not like other reserves in the North of the country, the guides have to work hard to find animals, in part due to the massive size of the reserve. Nonetheless most guests see the Big 5 in two or three game drives. The line-up includes re-introduced creatures into the area such as tawny lion, white rhino, cheetah and elephant. Sanbona includes a very civilised manor house for small groups called Tilney, a traditional thatch roof lodge, a luxurious tented camp and for those wanting to get even closer Sanbona offers an explorer or mobile camp.

This is perhaps one of the last least explored parts of the country... for foreign visitors at least as locals often go this way. Well worth the effort and a glimpse into that old-soul of South Africa missing in the larger more commercial destinations.

White Lions of Sanbona